Inari Tee Dress by Named Patterns

I'm just going to go ahead and throw this out there: I'm not a dress person. Here's why:

1. I have three kids four and under.
2. I am nursing an infant.
3. I am still self-conscious about my legs.
4. And my pasty-white skin.

But whatever, I made a dress anyway. It's the Inari Tee Dress by Named Patterns.

That was my first mistake. My second mistake was cutting the wrong size - a US 4. On the pattern website, only the finished garment measurements were listed (not the body measurements). I assumed that was all that was given, so I chose a size I thought would work and went with it. Only later when I opened the instructions to get the seam allowance did I realize that the body measurements WERE included, just not in the initial pattern information. Those put me in about a US 6 or 8.

So as you can see, there are some fitting issues. The fabric is kind of bunching up above my chest and bum, whereas it's supposed to be loose and drapey. But speaking of the fabric - isn't it lovely? I purchased it at Mood in Manhattan last summer. My husband said it looks like someone took x-ray films and cut them up. It's a bit heavier than shirting but not as heavy as twill. It has a little bit of stretch, too.

My only issue with the pattern is that the neck facing wasn't offset properly and therefore wasn't the same width all the way around the neck. If I made this again, I'd draft my own facing. Otherwise, the pattern was good. The cocoon shape is interesting and even flattering - but only in the right size with the proper amount of ease.

I think this dress has a future calling as a shirt. You know, when my nursing boobs have calmed down a little. Then it might be a great addition to my wardrobe.

What do you think? Have you tried the cocoon shape? Are you a mom who longs to wear dresses but...well...can't?

Quilted Cargo Duffle by Noodlehead in Ticking Stripe

Making structured bags is something in which I've only recently become interested. I don't really carry a purse, and my diaper bag is a super-functional Land's End bag that I purchased when Harper was a baby about four years ago. Other than that, I'm kind of a grab-whatever-I-can-find-and-go (even if it's a grocery bag) kind of girl. I've realized though that life with kids is much easier when I have dedicated bags for various things - a pool bag, a park bag, a splash pad bag, etc. So this Noodlehead Cargo Duffle (FREE pattern on Robert Kaufman's website) is a perfect addition to my (almost-nonexistent) entourage of bags! (See it here on Anna's blog.)

I collected photos of French ticking stripe bags on Pinterest for weeks before starting on this project, and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. The navy stripes and quilting make for such a classic, understated look. I think my tendency for accessory projects is to use flashier, more colorful fabrics, but I've been trying to temper that with things that work better with my wardrobe and lifestyle (just as I've been doing with my handmade garments).

I made a few modifications to the pattern. First, I added an exposed zipper pocket to one side of the bag instead of the cargo pockets included in the original pattern. Next, I put a velcro pocket on the other side for a changing pad, tablet, book or magazine. Then, I added a shoulder strap and reversed one of the zipper sliders so they would meet in the middle and pull apart to the ends of the bag.

I also wanted it to have a bit of structure, so I straight-line quilted the outer fabric to Pellon's relatively new 77 Flex Foam.

This bag pattern is pretty basic and versatile, so it's super easy to customize it however you want to meet your needs!

I also created a simple lining out of chambray fabric from my stash. I simply used the quilting cotton measurements from the instructions and left the top (where the zipper would go on the outer portion of the bag) open. I used a zipper foot to machine sew the lining into place around the top opening which probably wasn't the most elegant of solutions, but time to hand sew diaper bags is not on my current list of possessions. I had also planned to get a little more strategic with the lining by creating pockets and dividers, but alas, time...(or lack thereof).

As you can see, the bag is the perfect size for fitting in a couple kids' worth of diapers, changes of clothes, wipes, toys, etc.

BUT, it doesn't look too "diaper-baggy" so I can use it later for all sorts of things. It would be a great weekender bag, overnight bag, gym bag...you name it.

The only thing that concerns me a little is how dirty those straps are going to get! But all I have to do is remove the shoulder strap and throw this bag in the wash. Everything I used is machine- or hand-washable. Another solution would be to sew some leather pieces around the straps where they're usually held.

What do you think? Has this bag been on your sewing radar? Have you tried the new Pellon 77 Flex Foam? Do you love quilting all the things as much as I do?!

Fancy Tiger Sailor Top in Double Gauze

(First things first: My Soleil dress pattern is on the Friday Fiver at Crafterhours today! Head there to check it out and find out how to get the pattern for just $5 TODAY, Friday, August 14 ONLY!) :) (And one other thing! You can still enter to win a copy of Angela Wolf's Angel Jeans pattern here...and get 50% off her Craftsy course, too! Hurry, only a couple days left!)

One thing I love about blogging my sewing projects is that I get to see how they look naturally instead of how I imagine them in my head or see them in the mirror. (I use the term "naturally" loosely since these are completely posed selfies shot with a remote by yours truly.) I actually wasn't crazy about this Fancy Tiger Sailor Top when I first sewed it, and I had mostly forgotten about it since it was on display at Modern Domestic advertising a class I taught there a few months back. So when I got an email from the owner to come pick it up, I was a little "meh" about it.

I mean...it's a cute top. It's been a popular pattern. But just looking at it on the hanger? It felt a little frumpy to me. Too oversized. Not my style.

So I was fully prepared to photograph and blog it anyway and basically say that I wasn't crazy about the style.

BUT THEN...

These photos happened! And I now love this top! And the fabric! And the color! As my daughter would say, "Everything is awesome!"

(Funny side note: Harper was in the shower when I darted out of the house to take these photos. I shouted to her that I was leaving and good night and I love you and all that jazz, and she responded with, "Mommy, are you going to take some selfies?!" YES, Harper, yes I am!)

I made this top in a medium because I didn't want it to be too tight across the shoulders/under the arms, and I think it's perfect. I do, however, prefer my tops to be on the looser side. Someone who wants a more fitted look might want to err on the small side or grade down at the hem since it is quite full around the hips. For your pattern-size-decision reference, I am about 36" in the bust at the moment, and I am 5'6" tall.

I used the paper pattern, and I found it to be professionally drafted, well illustrated and easy-to-follow. I used French seams at the side and armholes and stitched the yoke in-the-ditch to finish. In retrospect, I wish I had taken the time to hand sew it. Sometimes, my ditch stitching is spot-on, and other times, not-so-much. This was one of those not-so-much times, but I'm cool with that. Finished is better than perfect, ya know? And the fact is that this would still be languishing in the WIP pile if I'd decided to hand stitch it.

The only odd thing about this top is that the yoke, despite being the same width all the way around in the pattern, seems to narrow at the shoulders when sewn. You can see this effect in the photo below. I'm guessing that's because that curve is on-the-bias? I recommend interfacing the yoke with a lightweight fusible to prevent such distortion - especially if using a fabric like double gauze or challis that tends to get a bit distorted even in the best of circumstances.

The fabric is a lovely Japanese double gauze for which I unfortunately couldn't find an online source. (If you have one, please leave it in the comments so I can add it!) I honestly don't love sewing garments with double gauze because of its tendency to wrinkle, but this one seems slightly more crisp than some others I've worked with. It still has fabulous drape though and is heavenly against the skin.

I'm so happy I snapped these shots and got to see this top in a different light. It's a perfect addition to my daily momiform, and I'm sure it will get a ton of wear now and with a cardigan in the fall/winter.

What do you think? Have you ever written off a garment as "not your style" but then changed your mind?

Oh, and if you're interested in sewing a Sailor Top for yourself but need a little guidance along the way, I recommend you check out this course on CreativeBug (affiliate link):

Jeans: Pilcro Superscript by Anthropologie (NOT an affiliate link) Shoes: swedish hasbeens Lacy (affiliate link) :)

Distressed Angel Jeans by Angela Wolf - Pattern Review, Giveaway and Discount!

There was a time in my life when I had a closet full of pricey designer jeans. Boot-cut, straight leg, flared, low-rise, high-rise...I had them all. Then, I met my engineer husband who puts everything into a spreadsheet, looks at our budget multiple times daily and gets a text message every time a single dollar is spent on our family credit card. Yeah, so designer jeans are a thing of the distant past. But since preschool costs about the same thing as college now and lots of little mouths have to be fed, it's probably a good thing that he came along and saved me from myself.

But fret not! Now I (and you) can have designer jeans for a very small fraction of the often-above-$150 price! Just take a look:

Now, don't get impatient with me because I have quite a few things to tell you about in this post including a giveaway and discount. BUT FIRST, let's get through the legal mumbo jumbo. Allllrighty? This post contains affiliate links, and if you click on them and make a purchase, I will make a small commission on those sales. I was provided the Sewing Designer Jeans course on Craftsy free of charge as a sample when I joined their affiliate program. I purchased my own Angel Bootcut Jean pattern and all the other supplies.

All set now? Grrrreat.

First, let's talk about this course (which you can get a 50% discount on through August 15 at 11:59pm MST via this blog post!). I discovered it after reading this post about distressed Turia Dungarees. Since joining the Craftsy Affiliate Network, I had a free course enrollment I could use, so I jumped at the chance to learn how to sew jeans that look just like designer ones. I don't really fancy super blinged-out jeans, but I do appreciate the slightly distressed seams and worn-in look that most jeans off-the-rack seem to have.

(Sign up via the image above to get 50% off when you sign up by August 15, 2015 at 11:59pm MST!)

I decided I had nothing to lose since I had a ton of time sitting in my rocking chair nursing the baby, and I started watching.

BLOWN. AWAY. That is the only way I have to describe everything I learned in this course! From the how to distress the jeans to getting all those layers of denim through a regular sewing machine to making the topstitching look perfect, it's all in this course. I think my favorite little tip was how to topstitch those pocket flaps without the point getting buried under my needle (and without skipping a stitch). I'll let Angela tell you all about it in the course though. ;)

As for the quality of the course, it was superb. And watching Angela was a pleasure. She has this rare quality that makes me want to be her friend (or hang out and sew!). You really won't be disappointed.

As I was watching the course, I became interested in Angela's bootcut jeans pattern. I actually hadn't heard of it before the course, so I was happy to see it looks a lot like one of my favorite brands of designer jeans - Hudson. She offered a discount code on the pattern to course participants, so I ordered the paper version (it also comes in PDF) and anxiously checked the mailbox every day. (Note: the course applies to ANY jean pattern of your choice, yet the samples Angela uses are from her Angel Bootcut Jeans pattern.

Next, I went on a little fact-finding mission. I grabbed a pair of comparable Hudson jeans from a nearby outlet for comparison. Since my body isn't back to normal just yet since having the baby, I needed a different method to test the fit of these without wasting a bunch of time making muslins over and over. So, I purchased the tightest pair of the RTW jeans I could manage (since I still have 15 pounds to lose) and compared them to the pattern pieces.

Here are the RTW Hudson jeans:

The RTW jeans were a size 27 (the same size I wore before babies), and I decided to make a size 4 in the Angel Jeans since they looked really close. Despite being super hard to button due to my current 30" waist, the fit is superb. I should note that from my hips down, I am back to normal. It's my upper body (waist, chest, back and upper arms) that I struggle with postpartum.

And yes, that is a Union St. Tee by Hey June Handmade!

Once I got my pattern, I had to procure a few supplies. Shockingly, the fabric was something I found in the red tag aisle at JoAnn Fabrics for $5/yard. It is a mid-weight stretch denim with 1% lycra. I don't think it's something they regularly stock since it was in the clearance section. I just got lucky! The topstitching thread, rivets, zipper and buttons all came from Taylor Tailor. I purchased my hand sander (similar here) and 220-grit sandpaper (similar here) at Home Depot, and the tailor's clapper (same one I purchased but on Amazon for you Prime shoppers!) came from Modern Domestic here in Portland (and Angela sells them in her shop for even less!). The triangle tailor's chalkcame from Fabric Depot in Portland. Angela was kind enough to include some quarter-inch twill tape in the pattern package, so I didn't have to purchase that. I won't tell you what it's for, but it does something amazing for these jeans! The rest of the needed tools/supplies (hammer, pliers, navy thread, scissors, etc.) I had on-hand.

(The photo above isn't exhaustive, but it sure does look pretty!)

Oh and look, it's a Julia Cardigan by Mouse House Creations! A totally handmade outfit!

The pattern itself is superb. I opted for the paper version which isn't cheap as far as sewing patterns go ($24.95 for paper version; $19.95 for PDF), but is 100% worth it for the finished product. It includes a spiral-bound booklet to help you through all the steps, and it's very well-written and illustrated. As I went through all the steps, I watched the videos again since I was distressing my jeans. You have to change the order of construction a little bit from the booklet to do it properly, and that's where the course comes in! I also thought constructing the fly was easier while watching Angela do it on the screen instead of from the illustrations. I've always struggled with fly fronts, but Angela made it super easy and great-looking in the end. I love that that her method of fly construction makes everything look tidy from both the outside AND inside - just like designer jeans.

I couldn't find flaw with the instructions except that one part tells you to finish/serge the center backs before sewing them together. But later, after you've sewn on the yoke pieces, you have to serge those. So, I think it would have been better to wait and serge that center back all at once after the leg pieces were joined to the yokes. No biggie though. The one other thing I will change next time is to make the front pocket pieces a little wider/longer. I wear my jeans very tight, and this can cause them to kind of peek out when they are stretched across the hips. I like the security of knowing they are nicely tucked in my pockets! This is just personal preference.

Everything else was seamless. I made a note of the changes I made in my little spiral-bound instructions and also what stitch lengths/widths I used for the various topstitching.

Another thing I love about this pattern is that it's customizable. Don't like the flap pockets? She includes regular pocket pieces, too. And there are instructions for lowering/raising the rise, narrowing the legs, lengthening/shortening, etc. The only modification I made to mine was to shorten the legs at the lengthen/shorten lines by 2" since I wanted a 32" inseam (the pattern is for 34"). For reference, I am 5'6".

DID I MENTION THEY WERE EASY-TO-SEW? I know it's hard to believe, but they really were. Yes, I am an experienced sewist, but anyone with basic sewing skills should be able to sew these with the combination of a good pattern and the course described in this post. I finished them over one weekend in just a few total hours. The hardest part was actually inserting the post buttons on the front fly and the back pockets. Angela warned me about the difficulty of hammering these in (and makes recommendations for alternatives), but I wanted to go for it anyway. I actually need to re-do two of them as I didn't hammer them in straight. My advice is to PRACTICE before applying them to your jeans!

I think that next time I make these, I will try a more classic look - perhaps do regular pockets, a narrower waistband, single-button closure and straighter legs. Either way, I've definitely found my jeans pattern. Everyone has their favorite, and there are definitely some good ones out there, but this one is the closest to perfect I've found for my body type.

Coincidentally, I took these photos in the parking lot behind Joann Fabrics. The neighborhood kids were riding their bikes all around me, so we decided to have some fun with this shoot! One of them said, "We're going to be famous!" Ha!

Now, for the good part!

Angela has generously offered a 15% discount off her Angel Jeans pattern for all my readers! Just enter code JEANS15 at checkout to receive the discount. She's also given me a copy of her pattern to give away right here! If the winner is in the US, she will receive a paper copy. Otherwise, the PDF version will be sent. Enter using the Rafflecopter widget below.

AND THAT'S NOT ALL...

Craftsy is also offering my readers a 50% discount on the course, Sew Designer Jeans through August 15, 2015 at 11:59 MST! Just click through any of the links to the course on this page to automatically get the discounted price.

Ready to enter?!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Black on Gray on Black | Union Street Tee

Did you know that black and white Nike sneakers (affiliate link) are totally a thing? I recently noticed they were popping up all over the street style pages of Pinterest, so of course, I had to buy some. Don't believe me? These are just a few of the hundreds of outfits that pop up on Pinterest after searching "black white nike outfit":

Oddly enough, they do have a way of pulling a simple outfit together while keeping your feet nice and comfy. I have been wearing mine with everything from actual workout outfits to jeans and even skirts. The key is to wear them with invisible socks (which I clearly did not do here - ahem, purple socks) and either bare legs or skinny jeans/pants. This keeps them tres chic instead of frumpy sneaker mom.

Speaking of pulling an outfit together in a simple and comfortable way...check out this Union Street Tee! When I was pregnant, I started a bunch of these shirts and only recently completed them. Hopefully you can ignore the cat hair/baby spitup/rain droplets all over my outfit in these pics to see the awesomeness that is this shirt.

Oh and since I am already drowning myself in negativity, let's also ignore the brassy hair. Not sure if that's an actual problem I'm having or the result of my inability to use VSCO presets. I guess we'll find out as time goes by since I don't see myself making it to the salon anytime soon.

Baaaaack to the shirt. This sewing pattern by Adrianna of Hey June Handmade is SUCH a fabulous wardrobe staple. Like I said, I have made quite a few of them - six to be exact - and I wear one almost every day. True story. In fact, I realized just the other day that I needed to hurry up and photograph at least one of them since they are quickly falling victim to the daily rigors of life with an infant (ahem, milk stains).

(Quick note: I searched for the perfect camera/laptop bag for months, and I finally found it as shown above. It's the Tenba 638-236 Photo/Laptop Bag in Plum (affiliate link), and it's perfect! Not only does it hold both my 15" Macbook Pro, but it also has a removable, padded divider for my camera body, four lenses and flash. I have traveled all over with it, and it's super durable. Plus, it looks fabulous! Purple is the new black!)

Back to the tees.

These tees sew up fast and easy and are a great way to learn how to do V-necks. I feel like kind of an expert now that I've done so many of them. They do take practice to get juuuust right, but the end effect is so worth it. Adrianna explains the process very well through professional illustrations in the pattern tutorial.

The fit is similar to what you'd expect from a ready-to-wear brand, and the sizing is easy to customize since you choose which one to make by finished garment measurements, not body measurements. I chose a medium based on some of my RTW shirts, and it's perfect for now as a semi-fitted top and later as a slouchier tee. My (currently ample) bust is roughly 36-38" in these photos.

The fabric I used is a jersey knit purchased at Mood Fabrics in Manhattan.

I'm sure I'll be using this pattern over and over to make lots of tees as my current set gets destroyed by small humans, and when I do, I'll make a couple changes. First, I noticed that where my neckline bindings (are they bindings if they don't actually bind anything?) join to the shirt, there's a little bunching of the fabric. Next time, I will lengthen the neckline pieces slightly (I used the longer ones for less stretchy fabric already) to avoid this. A good steam iron has mostly gotten rid of them, but I'm going for perfection here, people! I don't think this is a flaw in the pattern; it's just a result of different knit fabrics having different recovery and stretch.

The other thing is that I might try a sloping shoulder adjustment as you can see I have a little bunching above the bust/under the arms in some of these photos. This is a problem I also have with RTW shirts, so I think it's just me and my bad posture. I thought for a minute that maybe it was because of my nursing boobs, but I also have this problem with RTW shirts when I'm much smaller.

Have you sewn the Union St. Tee yet? Do you like sewing wardrobe basics as much as I do?