Woven Hudson Pants in Distressed Tencel Denim + Union St. Tee

  I have been wanting a pair of Tencel joggers for quite a while. If you follow me on Pinterest, you know I've been pinning these things like a mad person for months. I even bought the fabric (a lovely Robert Kaufman Tencel denim from Fabric Depot's retail store here in Portland for which I haven't been able to find an online source) a few weeks ago. But for whatever reason, I was hesitant to cut into it because I hadn't fully settled on a pattern and which details to incorporate into my final garment.

I knew I wanted blue Tencel like you see on the left and right below, but I wanted some additional details and distressing like you see in the middle.

Tencel Joggers by laurenydahl featuring a cotton trousers

I have made several pairs of knit Hudson Pants (that I love but haven't blogged because pregnancy), but I couldn't commit to making a woven pair without knowing if they'd fit. I'd read several other bloggers' (and the designer's) recommendations to make them two or three sizes bigger, but still...the uncertainty! I also knew I wanted to try to distress them a bit to keep them looking like Grandma capris. Ultimately, I ended up making two sizes up from my normal 6 - so these are a 10 with no other fit modifications.

Well, I think I succeeded at everything above since this is my finished product (!!!):

I absolutely love them!

BUT... (womp, womp, womp)

Distressing this lightweight denim Tencel, while good-looking, wasn't the best idea. I noticed as I was sewing them that some of the distressed areas around the seams were getting pretty thread-bare, but the distressing still wasn't as noticeable as I wanted. The bottom line is that distressing is probably best saved for heavier denim, canvas and sturdy twill because when I bent down to feed my cats this morning, I blew out the knee of the pants (as you can see in the top photo above!).

I wore these to the fabric store today to pick up a pressing clapper and some Swedish tracing paper, but I was terrified the whole time I would blow out the center-back seam. I made sure to not bend over! I might make an attempt to reinforce/patch these, but either way, I will wear these at home and make more withOUT the distressing (or a heavier fabric WITH distressing).

Here are all the modifications I made to the pattern to get this result.

First, I removed the pocket cutout from the front pants pieces by holding the traced piece over the pocket piece on the pattern and completing the shape, like so:

Next, I used the pocket piece from the Cali Faye Collection Basics Pocket Skirt (which I made here) to create a pocket pattern piece. I traced it onto my front pant pieces to make sure the top and side would match up, and then I traced it onto a new piece of tracing paper to have a stand-alone piece.

(See how it doesn't perfectly match up at the top and side? That's why I traced it onto the pattern piece instead of just using it as-is.)

Next, I created a faux fly simply by eyeballing it on my pattern and adding a seam allowance like you see below.

For the ankle bands, I simply used the height of the waistband (since I planned to use the same elastic) and measured the leg openings at the bottom to see how wide to make them. You will need to do this yourself since it varies based on size.

Next, I used the inside leg notch on the front leg pieces to use as a reference point for the knee. I cut the pattern open about 3.25" above and below that notch to create the knee panels on the front.

I made myself a little note to add seam allowance rather than re-tracing them. I did the same for the back, but I cut it right at the notch instead of having a panel. In other words, there's only one seam across the back of the leg instead of two like in the front.

I serged the two long edges of the pockets and folded them under/pressed about 1/2". I finished the slanted edge with a little bias tape I made from leftover Tencel denim. I topstitched the slanted edge and then sewed them onto my pants front pieces.

For your reference, I did my topstitching with the triple stitch on my sewing machine, and I placed two rows - one about 1/8" from each edge and another about 3/8" from the edge.

I pieced everything else together, distressed and topstitched as described above. I also drafted some pockets for the back based on a pair of linen RTW pants I already own:

If you don't have a pair of pants with pockets on them, you can use my pocket measurements. These were 6.5" wide by 7" tall, and I serged all the edges and folded them under 1/2" on the sides/bottom and 1" at the top. I also created the fun little angled corners on the bottom which you can easily do if you like.

I totally eyeballed the pocket placement, stuck them on with Wonder Tape, checked in the mirror, readjusted, and sewed. I put them on as a last step, but normally you would put these on before piecing the front/back of the pants. I wanted to be sure, however, that I liked the placement on my body. It's a little more challenging this way, but it's not impossible.

Finally, I added the leg cuffs in the same manner as the waistband.

Et voila! Here is my finished result!

If you're wondering about the distressing, I will be discussing this more in a future post when I talk about the jeans I'm working on (hint: a 220-grit sandpaper)! In the meantime, you can check out Sewing Designer Jeans with Angela Wolf (affiliate link) on Craftsy. I took it and soaked in every. single. word. It's where I learned all my distressing techniques, and I'll be going through each lesson again as I work on my jeans. (The first time around, I simply watched/listened while nursing my little guy!)

As for the fabulous t-shirt, it's a Union St. Tee by Hey June Handmade in a great Triplex Heather from the Sew Kinetic store.

I'm going to be making more woven Hudson Pants using my now-perfected pattern and knowledge. What about you? Have you gotten the woven Hudson bug? Have you sewn with Tencel? Isn't it amazing?!

Cali Faye Collection - Basics Pocket Skirt

I've been sewing some great basics lately, and I'm happy to have found the Cali Faye Collection Basics Pocket Skirt to add to my collection of TNT patterns. I love this skirt because it's casual and functional (mmmmmm, pockets that don't bunch up and poke out like I have weird camel bumps on my hips), and it doesn't have a ton of poof (which can make my toothpick legs disappear).

It's also really comfortable since it has elastic in the back, but it's tailored enough to be a little more dressed-up than a simple elastic-waist skirt. It was super fast and easy-to-sew even with the zipper insertion. You can use any type of zipper you like, but I chose an invisible one because a) I had a matching one in my stash and b) that's my favorite kind to do! (Yes, really! They are easy!)

For me, the trickiest parts of making this skirt were a) evenly gathering the skirt since this linen was a tad heavy and b) getting the elastic situated in the back waistband. Neither were very difficult...just tricky. Oh, and the pattern called for 1.5" elastic, but there was no way that was going in there for me despite my best efforts at precise sewing. I used 1.25" elastic, and it was perfect.

The pattern was extremely professionally drafted and illustrated. I made a size medium based on my regular waist (27") and hip (37") measurements. I bought some SPANX just so I could get this skirt on and photograph it for you. Haha. No, really, I did buy some SPANX, but not just for this skirt. They really do help me feel a little more put together since having the baby just two months ago. Without them, I can fit into my old pants, but I have this large roll of fat that hangs out above my pants waistband, and it's just not attractive (or comfortable). WITH them, everything slides on like buttah, and I don't have to worry about VSP (visible panty line) that...let's face it...is all too common in the typical mommy wardrobe. (The truth is that I purchased them at the suggestion of one of my fellow sewing bloggers when I asked what type of underwear she wore under tight, ponte pencil skirts).

Funny story though - Harper walked in as I was getting dressed, and she looked at my SPANX and said, "Mom, what are those?" She gave me the funniest look. I told her they are "special mommy panties." She kind of looked at me funny again and walked away. It reminded me of the time my grandmother explained to me the magic of a girdle.

If you're interested in getting yourself some of these magical undies, get them here on Amazon. Yes, that's an affiliate link. And yes, you're welcome.

But enough about my girdle.

The fabric is my new favorite linen blend - a 70% linen/30% cotton from Moda that I purchased at Fabric Depot's retail store. I can't seem to find much more information on this fabric online, so if someone can identify it, please leave a comment! It's a little pricier and thicker than the ever-popular Essex Linen, and it has an almost creamy feel to it. It's fabulous to sew and doesn't wrinkle as much as more crisp, thin linens.

You might recognize this top as a Tessutti Brigitte which I previously blogged here. It's another TNT pattern for me that I highly recommend! The neckline is so unique compared to all the other tees out there, and the fit is fabulous. The only problem I have with it at the moment is that it makes my nursing boobs look HUGE in this panel stripe. I guess I should enjoy it while I can?

My shoes are the swedish hasbeens Suzanne Debutant (affiliate link again - you're welcome again) that I purchased that time that sewing bloggers took down Amazon with their Instagram feeds. If you don't know what I'm talking about, you don't need to know.

Photos are by the lovely Jenny of Cashmerette whom I had the absolute pleasure of meeting this week! Thanks, Jenny! xoxo

What is your TNT skirt pattern for casual wear? Have you tried anything from Cali Faye Collection's new Basics line? I'm loving everything I've tried and look forward to making more! xoxo

Jalie 3248 Drop-Pocket Cardigan and Cali Faye Collection Basics Tank

I have been on the search for THE perfect cardigan and THE perfect woven tank for years. I've tried several different cardigans which were all just okay...but something wasn't quite right with each one I tried. The closest I came before the one in these photos was a modified Oslo from Seamwork Magazine, but it required quite a bit of modification because even the XS/S (I graded in-between) came out quite large in the arms and hips. Then, I tried the Jalie 3248 Drop-Pocket Cardigan. And I can't get enough! I have hardly taken this garment off since sewing it! I even slept in it the other night when I was too tired (and chilly) to take it off.

The construction on this cardigan is super smart and very ready-to-wear. I absolutely adore the pockets! Although there are some nice details to the garment, it sewed up quite quickly. I traced and cut it one night and sewed it completely using all three of my machines the next.

I started with a regular machine for the back neck binding, sewed most of the body with my serger and then finished the bottom hem (back only - the front doesn't need to be hemmed) and sleeves with my coverstitch machine.

The directions were very straightforward, well-explained and illustrated. A beginning sewist might get a little confused on the pocket construction, but if you take it step-by-step and simply follow the instructions, you'll do just fine. (Also: Did you know that Jalie patterns start at size 2T and go all the way up to women's 22??!! All in one envelope?! YES!)

I made a size S or US 6 based on my normal, non-postpartum measurements, and it's perfect. It will be slightly slouchier when I lose weight, and that's just fine by me. The sleeves were also nice and long (but not TOO long) for my 5'6" figure.

The fabric is an amazingly soft, lightweight and comfortable French terry that I purchased at Mood Fabrics in Manhattan last year. I ALMOST didn't have enough to make this sweater (it takes quite a lot of fabric!), but through some creative cutting, I made it work. I'm so glad I did because it's PERFECT for this top.

Coincidentally, Allie at Indiesew did a post this week about French terry on the Indiesew blog. If you've never sewn with it, you should definitely check it out. It's my all-time favorite fabric.

The tank is the Cali Faye Collection Basics Tank and I LOVE IT. Like I said, I'd considered several other woven tanks and never quite found the perfect one. I love the low-ish neckline and back, the gently curved hem (front and back) and the simple construction of this one. Plus, it fits great. It is currently a little tight across the back, but I'm sure losing a few more pounds will remedy that.

I made a size medium based on my regular measurements, and it will be perfect soon. It works just fine right now, too, especially with a cardigan.

The fabric for the tank is a metallic, textured cotton from Yellow Bird Fabrics back when it was a brick & mortar store in Salt Lake City. It had been sitting in my stash for quite a while, so I decided to give it a go as a wearable muslin for this tank. While it is a lovely fabric and it works well for this top, I don't love that it wrinkles a bit when sitting and driving. Oh well; it's certainly wearable.

I'm still working on my bias binding technique. I've followed all the tutorials and tips, and I've tried so many things, but I can't seem to get it to lie flat all the time. The next thing I'm going to try is to make it more narrow - 1/4" instead of 1/2" as you see here. I'll let you know how that goes as I already have another one of these tanks cut and ready-to-sew.

Do you have a favorite cardigan and tank pattern? These are already in regular rotation and are both going in the TNT (tried-and-true) file for me. I can't wait to make more of both of them!