Aster Cardigan to Quilted Jersey Dress REMIX!

You can read my original review of the Aster Cardigan by Vanessa of Willow & Co Patterns here. Or, you can just enjoy these photos of one of my favorite garments I've ever made for Harper. Or ever. No really. It is that good. I'd had this dress idea in mind for quite some time, and after picking up this quilted jersey from Mood Fabrics in NYC (which is sadly out-of-stock thanks in part to yours truly - but here is a blue version), I knew it had to happen.

I'm not one to re-create the wheel if it already exists, so when I saw the fit of my first Aster Cardigan on Harper, I decided to remix it a bit to make my quilted-jersey-dress dreams come true.

The remix was really quite simple; all I did was fold the center front of the front bodice piece inward at the foldline notch so it was the same width as the back bodice piece. I then taped the front bodice pattern piece onto a larger piece of tracing paper, and I marked a point 22" down from the shoulder (to create a 20-21" dress which is the standard shoulder-to-knee measurement for a 2-3 year old plus a little for a hem).

Starting at the underarm, I drew an angled line down to the 22" point creating an A-line shape. I drew in the bottom hem with a slight curve, and that was about it. Of course, I had to also draw in that A-line dress section for the back. Okay, truth be told, I used the same pattern piece as for the front...I just made sure to the the higher, back neckline instead.

Oh, I also lengthened the main sleeve piece by about two inches to hem it instead of creating cuffs. And then, I simply cut all the pieces out on the fold. For the neckline facing, I just cut a long strip of the same fabric with a width of about 2".

Before I did any of the main garment construction, I created a facing piece the length of my zipper and applied it to the back bodice piece - creating this adorable exposed zipper. I also skillfully created completely improvised a little flap behind the zipper to protect Harper's skin from the metal teeth. It actually turned out quite great considering I had no idea what I was doing.

For the front pocket, I traced off a 6x9 envelope - the kind in which I keep my traced pattern pieces. I eyeballed the cutouts for the hands, and I got really lucky with my pattern matching. Seriously though, if you are going to do this sort of pocket on a patterned fabric, it's really cool to match up the pattern. You will get lots of high fives for this sort of thing.

The photoshoot location was a vacant lot I spotted on the way to Harper's preschool one afternoon. It worked out quite well, and we'll probably be making lots of stops there...until, you know, a house gets built or something.

So yes, I am quite pleased with this little number. What do you think? Are you swooning over this quilted jersey like I am? I, ahem, may have ordered an additional three yards of the blue version this afternoon...

Willow & Co Patterns Aster Cardigan and Clover Shorts

I am SO late to the Willow & Co party. I know. In fact, I bought these fabrics months ago when the pattern collective first launched - and I had every intention of participating in the pattern tour. But, you know, life happened...things got in the way...and I cleared my plate. But interestingly, I've been sewing a TON more now that I don't have any "obligations." I use quotation marks because my husband always laughs when I get stressed out about sewing deadlines. I mean, it is kind of funny, you know? Because sewing. Right? Anyway, I am loving how all my W&CO garments are turning out, and these are especially cute (the Aster Cardigan and Clover Shorts). Don't mind the blurry photos; I'm not sure what was going on other than the fact that it was semi-raining. So maybe a little misty? Some condensation on the lens? I suck at photos? All of the above?

Instructions

For the cardi, I only glanced at them. That top was seriously easy to sew, and it took about half an hour. The instructions are straightforward and well-written.

Same for the shorts. Super-easy sew...predictable (but fun!)...etc.

Pattern Pieces

No complaints from this peanut gallery. Everything was perfect.

Sizing/Fit

Harper is a straight-up-and-down 20.5" (chest, waist and seat). I made the 3T in the cardigan and a 2T in the shorts. Both are a perfect fit. I chose the larger size in the cardigan because I wanted her to be able to wear a little tee underneath...and, well, I am not one of those people that wants things I sew to fit perfectly on first try. I like a little growing room.

I chose the smaller size for the shorts because Harper has my unfortunate no-butt genes. And, ahem, her daddy's, too.

Modifications I Made

None.

Things I'd Change Next Time

Nothing! I may, however, switch out the buttons since I'm not sure I'm in love with these...not for this outfit, anyway.

Fabric Choice

The top is a fabulous, thick ponte knit from A Fashionable Stitch. It almost felt like felt while sewing; I didn't have to use any pins since it was so grippy. It was easy-to-sew and works perfectly for this pattern.

The shorts are made of a medium-weight stretch twill, also from A Fashionable Stitch. Perfection.

Wearability

Right after I took these photos, I took the kids to the Treehouse Museum in Ogden. Harper was climbing all over things, playing, running around, etc. - and she did it all with ease. She even took herself to the potty (!!!!!!!) and managed to get everything up and down. I love that she was comfortable, but she also looked adorable (and got compliments! Someone asked me if I sold the garments!).

So yes, I'd give that a thumbs up for wearability. I can see this cardigan looking great all winter with jeans, leggings, skirts...everything. And the shorts? I'm thinking about putting those over some tights with Harper's purple Doc Martens.

Overall Impression

Awesome, awesome, awesome. I had so much fun sewing these patterns. They are the trifecta in my book: fast/easy but fun-to-sew and great-looking. And Harper's happy.

What have YOU sewn from Willow & Co? Do you love their patterns as much as I do?!

Free Sewing Pattern: Cupcake Dress and Gleeful Blog Hop

When Caroline of the popular sewing blog/pattern company Sew Caroline contacted me about participating in the tour for her new fabric line, Gleeful, I was ecstatic! Caroline has become a great friend over the past few months, and pretty much anything she creates is fun, colorful and beautiful (just like her!). I asked for a yard of "After the Rain" in voile. Oh girls. Let me tell you - this stuff is heavenly! It has beautiful drape and is SO, so soft. And you know, some really soft fabrics get kind of fuzzy and lose their saturation after washing...but not this one! It is still the most heavenly blue color even after LOTS of wear by this little girl.

Free Sewing Pattern: Cupcake Dress

I whipped up this little number for Harper  using the fabric Caroline sent, and I just adore her in it. The color is perfect with her skintone and blue eyes, and it was super easy to sew up.

Free Sewing Pattern: Cupcake Dress

We did our little impromptu photo shoot in the parking lot at So Cupcake in Salt Lake City. I took her there to get a cupcake to (hopefully) bribe her to go somewhere outdoors and take photos, but then, we spotted this ice cream/cupcake truck and KNEW it was the perfect location! So, I present to you the Cupcake Dress!

Free Sewing Pattern: Cupcake Dress

It's a simple silhouette with elastic in the back for a comfortable fit, ties around the neck and a gathered skirt. It can be fully lined or just lined in the bodice depending on how sheer your main fabric is. For this version, I fully lined the dress with sheermist batiste from Hancock Fabrics. They had a royal blue that almost perfectly matched the main!

Free Sewing Pattern: Cupcake Dress

And hey, the best part? You guys get a free pattern! The bodice prints on just two pages and is available in sizes 12M-8. For the skirt and straps, you just have to cut some rectangles.

THANKS SO MUCH to Caroline for inviting me to participate in her tour!

Ready to sew a Cupcake Dress?! 

Download Pattern Here

NOTE: THE PRINTED PATTERN SAYS TO CUT A BACK BODICE PIECE OUT OF LINING IN ADDITION TO THE MAIN. THIS IS UNNECESSARY. YOU ONLY NEED TO CUT ONE FROM MAIN. :)

Sizing (sorry I forgot to put this in the original post!): 

18" chest - 12M 19" chest - 18M 20" chest - 2 21" chest - 3 22" chest - 4 23" chest - 5 24 " chest - 6 25" chest - 7 26" chest - 8

Cut skirt/lining/strap/elastic pieces as follows (click on the image for a larger version):

Screen Shot 2014-07-30 at 3.32.53 PM

Free Sewing Pattern: Cupcake Dress

Sewing Instructions: 

(Before I get lots of hate comments/email about my lack of illustrations, let me apologize. I started on these and just didn't have time to finish with everything going on right now! Trust me though, this dress is super easy-to-put-together. Just follow the instructions step-by-step, and you'll have no problems! xoxo)

1. Fold straps in half lengthwise with RIGHT sides together and press. Stitch around all but one short end with a 3/8" seam allowance. Trim seam allowance 1/8" from stitching - OR - if using a very lightweight fabric like I am, you may leave the seam allowance to give the straps a little heft. Turn straps right-side-out; press.

2. Pin straps to the RIGHT side of the front bodice piece as indicated on the pattern. Match up the raw edge of the straps with the raw edge of the top of the bodice front. Baste in place.

3. With RIGHT sides together, sew bodice front to bodice lining along top edge only. The straps will be sandwiched in-between the two layers. If desired, you may reinforce the straps with a second line of stitching on the seam allowance and close to the first line of stitching. 

4. Fold back bodice piece in half lengthwise with WRONG sides together and press.

5. Stitch a line 1/4" away from the folded edge. Stitch another line 5/8" away from the raw edge. Finally, baste (use a wide stitch that will be removed later) another a line 3/8" away from the raw edge.

6. Insert one piece of elastic in the casing you just created along the top of the back bodice piece using a small safety pin or bodkin. Carefully tug on the elastic until the end of the elastic meets with the edge of the casing. Stitch that end in place. Remove safety pin/bodkin, and repeat for the other side.

7. Insert second piece of elastic into the casing at the bottom of the back bodice piece. Stitch the ends in place as you did for the first piece of elastic.

8. Open up the front bodice, and insert the back bodice into it. The back bodice piece will be sandwiched between the main and lining of the front bodice and touching the right sides of the front bodice pieces. Line up the side edges of the front bodice pieces with the back bodice piece. Make sure the back bodice piece is jammed all the way up there so the side seams will be even when everything is turned right-side-out. Using a 3/8" seam allowance, sew bodice pieces together at the side seams.

9. Turn bodice pieces right-side-out and press. You may clip curves along the front bodice if needed to make it lie nice and straight.

10. With RIGHT sides together, sew skirt pieces together at side seams. Serge, zigzag or pink seam allowances, and press toward back. Repeat for lining if you have chosen to include one.

11. Baste a wide stitch along the top edge of the skirt using a 3/8" seam allowance for gathering. Baste a second line of wide stitches using a 1/4" seam allowance. Grabbing only the two top threads at the beginning of the stitches you just made, pull to gather the skirt. Repeat for lining if you have chosen to include one.

12. With main side of bodice touching RIGHT side of skirt, pin skirt to bodice, matching side seams and center notches. Adjust skirt gathers evenly to fit.

13. If including a lining, you will now pin the right side of the lining to the lining side of the bodice, sandwiching the bodice between the skirt main and skirt lining. Adjust gathers evenly to fit.

14. With a 3/8" seam allowance, sew skirt and optional skirt lining to bodice. Try to keep a very accurate seam allowance on the back side so you don't catch the elastic in the stitching. Don't stress too much if you do, though. :) Serge, zigzag or pink seam allowance.

15. Flip the skirt and optional skirt lining down, and press seam allowance up toward bodice. Almost done!

16. Turn bottom hem under toward wrong side 1/4" and press. Then turn it under another 1/4" and press again. Sew hem in place. Repeat for lining if you chose to do one.

17. Give everything one last press, and put that dress on a little girl! Adorable, right?!