Free Sewing Pattern: Baby Got Back Leggings for Cloth-Diapered Babies

A few years ago, when Harper was just a wee little baby, I created my first sewing pattern while I was blogging as Ruthie Pearl. It was called "Baby Got Back Leggings" and was designed for tiny babies through two-year-olds wearing cloth diapers. At that time, I had an extremely hard time finding pants to fit over Harper's prefolds, and I couldn't find a pattern for knits (you know how I love knits!) that was designed specifically for this purpose. I guess you could say this pattern is what got me started on the pattern design route. I had this pattern for sale for a while on Craftsy and through my own site, but I took it down when I started learning more about pattern design and digital grading. I'm not really sure why because it's actually a really good pattern - especially for a first shot! But I am a perfectionist...what can I say.

So today, I popped it open to take a look after about 2 years of not seeing it. And you know, it really IS a great pattern! But because my live files are long lost on an old and broken down computer, I can't update the original with my new blog title, branding, etc. So, I've decided to simply re-release it as a free download.

It's done a little different than I do my patterns now (specifically, the tiling), but like I said, it's still a GREAT pattern that I used a million times when Harper was a baby. I'm sure you will get a ton of use out of it too! You can even use this pattern for non-cloth-diapered babies to create the super trendy drop-crotch look that's all over Pinterest these days.

Download Here

_DSC1151

SO, here you have it! The Baby Got Back sewing pattern. The pants are designed to be a legging style, but the 27-page e-book pattern includes instructions for altering the pattern to widen the leg or make other changes. As leggings, they are most appropriate for girls. BUT, they would work equally well for a boy who likes a trim fit! (Or, you can simply make the legs a little wider or go up one size for a baggier fit.)

_DSC1157

Here's how the Baby Got Back sewing pattern is specifically tailored for cloth-diapered babies:

• Scoop front to avoid pants digging into little tummies (and unsightly extra bulk)
• Higher rise front and back to prevent the diaper from sticking out over the top
• Back panel to accommodate the fluffiest of diapers
• Extra space between the legs so your baby is comfortable sitting up, crawling or playing (no more straight-jacket look!)
• Super soft elastic waistband to avoid extra pressure around the tummy

_DSC1227

In addition to the basic legging pattern, I've included the following in the e-book:

• Instructions for making various alterations to the pattern for a custom fit
• Faux fly template and instructions for making "jeggings"
• Applique templates (star and heart) and instructions
• Ruffle bum/cuff tutorial
• Ruching tutorial (for the leg cuffs - soooo cute!)
• Capri instructions

Are you just a beginning sewist? Have you never sewn with knits? Have no fear! I fully illustrate exactly how to make the Baby Got Back pants with photos for every step along the way. You don't need any special equipment other than a sewing machine, and a serger is totally optional.

Here's what you'll need:

• 1/2 - 3/4 yard of stretch knit fabric like interlock, jersey, fleece, velour, etc.
• OR, you can upcycle a t-shirt or turtleneck!! Just imagine the possibilities...
• 3/4" knit elastic (just a tiny bit more than your baby's waist measurement)
• Thread, straight pins, scissors, marking pen/chalk - the usual sewing stuff!

Sizing Information

I have included the following sizes in the pattern:

• 0-3mos
• 3-6mos
• 6-12mos
• 12-18mos
• 18-24mos
• 2T

I didn't do a newborn size because I never really had much problem getting newborn or size 0-3mos size pants on Harper when she was tiny - even with her cloth diaper (she was average size - 7.5lbs and 20 inches). Remember, if you're used to buying pants two sizes too big for your baby to accommodate her cloth diaper, you don't have to do that with the Baby Got Back sewing pattern. In fact, the pattern is sized pretty generously so babies at the top percentile range can still wear these pants (or babies at the top end of each age range - in other words, the 6-12mos size is designed to actually fit a 12-month-old). If in doubt when selecting your baby's size, go down a size! Or, if you want a nice-and-fitted legging look, go down a size. You can always grab an old t-shirt and whip up a sample pair to be sure about the fit before cutting into a more valuable fabric.

_DSC1223

Harper is shown in all these photos wearing the 6-12mos size. In the photos, she is 9-months-old, 19 pounds and 28 inches tall. She is in the 40th percentile for weight and the 70th for height. She could actually wear the 3-6mos size if I wanted a really fitted look. I like making her clothing a little big though so she has plenty of room to grow!

Download Here

I hope you enjoy this free pattern! xoxo

Free Knitting Pattern: Baby Frog Legs

Baby legwarmers are genius. They're cute, too, of course...but seriously...brilliant. I call these "Baby Frog Legs" because the first thing my mom texted me after seeing a photo of newborn Harper was, "Awwwwww, baby frog legs!" You know, little babies always have their legs drawn up in a frog-like fashion. It's extra-cute.

You can put them with pants and socks while on a walk so baby's ankles don't get cold. You can put them on their arms for a funky (and functional) look. You can put them on with a diaper and a onesie to make changes really easy. You can put them on baby to protect her knees when she's learning to crawl. Seriously...awesome!

BUT, the commercially produced ones are kind of expensive (especially for what they are - basically adult socks, made in China with the feet left off - they should be about $2 at the most). And honestly, I don't want to just cut off the feet of cheap socks. I don't know why I'm so against it - I guess I just don't like the raw edges (even if they are serged).

Enter my free knitting pattern for baby legwarmers!

These are seriously easy-to-make, and there are dozens of amazing sock yarns out there to ensure your baby will be looking her (or his) styliest (did I just make up that word?). You can make them as long or short as you like, and if your baby is particularly thin or chubby, you can alter the pattern down or up.

So here you go!

• Yarn: I used Shibui Sock in Spectrum - but any fingering/sock yarn will do.
• Needle: 40" Size 2 circular (for Magic Loop) or set of 4-5 Size 2 DPNs
• Gauge: 7-8 stitches/1"
• Skills required: Knit stitch, purl stitch, long-tail cast-on, sewn bind-off

Pattern:

1. CO 42 stitches using long-tail cast-on method.
2. Join to work in the round using whatever method you prefer. I used Magic Loop as shown in the video below.

1. Work K1/P1 ribbing for 5 rounds. For the legwarmers pictured in this post, I double-stranded the yarn for the ribbed portions because I like them a little thicker. However, this effectively increased my gauge and caused the ribbing to not gather in like it normally does. If you want your ribbing to be a little thicker like mine, note that you might have to thread some elastic thread through the ribbing after you're done to get the gathered-in effect that ribbing normally produces. (In fact, the elastic in the ribbing is a good idea either way.) See this tutorial to learn more about adding elastic to your baby legwarmers.
2. Work in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until work measures approximately 25cm. Commercially produced baby legwarmers are 20-25cm for newborns and 30-35cm for infants, but I like mine on the short side even for my six-month-old. You can make yours as long or short as you like.
3. Switch back to K1/P1 ribbing, and work 5 rounds.
4. BO using Elizabeth Zimmerman's Sewn Bind-off (see video below). This is very important because you want the edge to be very stretchy! Don't ruin your baby legwarmer with a basic bind-off! But don't worry, the sewn bind-off is simple.

A few notes to make your baby legwarmers awesome:

• If you use Magic Loop, don't worry about getting an even number of stitches on each needle. Instead, put 20 on one and 22 on the other. This way, when you switch needles, you will always be starting with a knit stitch while you are working the ribbing. Otherwise, you might get confused and throw off the K1/P1 pattern.
• I highly recommend you put the elastic in the ribbing as shown here and in my photos at the end of this post. Otherwise, your baby's legwarmers will inevitably fall down. This is a common problem with all baby legwarmers - both hand-knitted ones and commercially produced ones. They are probably going to eventually come off anyway (babies love pulling at them), but this will up your odds of success.
• The baby shown in these photos is six-months-old, 26" long and 18 pounds. I would say her legs are average - not too thin, not too chubby.
• My finished baby legwarmers as shown are 3" (7cm) wide and 9" (23cm) long.
• The Shibui Sock yarn is incredible - it feels slightly stiff while knitting, but after a good Eucalan soak, they are soft and squishy...just like my baby! :)
• I recommend using a superwash wool so you can throw these in with the rest of the baby's clothes in case...you know...an accident happens!

Here's how the legwarmers look after the application of thread elastic through the ribbing:

Much better! And they actually stay up. I made the elastic a little tighter on the ankle cuff than the thigh cuff for obvious reasons. Here's what it looks like on the inside of the legwarmer:

Happy knitting!

Free Knitting Pattern: Embellish This! Hat

I call this pattern the "Embellish This!" Hat because it's a super-simple project just waiting for the perfect felt flower or other such goodness. I created this pattern by doing some simple math that you can do, too, to customize it for any size person and any type of yarn. (I'll give you customization instructions after the pattern for the hat as shown in the photo above.) Here's what you need for the hat shown here:

• Size 8, 16" circular needle
• Size 10, 16" circular needle
• Size 10 DPNs --OR-- Size 10, 40" circular needle (if you prefer Magic Loop like I do)
• Heavy worsted/Aran-weight yarn (I used Cascade Eco)
• One stitch marker
• Tapestry needle
• EMBELLISHMENT! (I used this tutorial to make the felt flower as shown)

Size:

• Hat as shown is for a 16" infant head. (Note that according to the standard sizes in the link at the end of this section, 16" is considered a toddler head. I am not sure if my daughter has a big head or what, but that is her measurement. I would assume she is pretty average. Size up if in doubt - KIDS GROW! FAST!) My daughter is 5.5-months-old. This pattern must be worked in multiples of 8, so for every 8 stitches you increase or decrease, you will increase or decrease ABOUT 2". For reference, standard head sizes can be found here.

Gauge:

• Mine was 14 stitches/4" for the hat as shown. OR, you can use the math that I'll share with you later to customize YOUR hat to YOUR gauge.

Pattern:

• Cast on 56 stitches using the long-tail cast-on method and size 8 circular needle.
• Place marker, and join to work in the round. Be careful to not twist your stitches.
• Work in K1/P1 ribbing for 1.25" (6-7 rows) or as desired. I like to knit my tail yarn into the first five or six stitches and then cut it so I don't have to weave it in at the end. You can do that if you like.
• Switch to size 10 circular needle.
• Continue knitting in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until work measures 3.5" (measure from the cast-on edge, NOT the end of the ribbing!)
• Begin decrease sequence. You may switch to DPNs or Magic Loop whenever you feel it is necessary.
• (K6, k2tog) 7 times.
• Knit around.
• (K5, k2tog) 7 times.
• Knit around.
• (K4, k2tog) 7 times.
• Knit around
• (K3, k2tog) 7 times.
• Knit around.
• (K2, k2tog) 7 times.
• Knit around.
• (K1, k2tog) 7 times.
• Knit around.
• K2tog 7 times.
• Cut yarn, leaving a 10" tail. Thread it through the tapestry needle and pull it through the remaining 7 stitches. Cinch it tight, and pull it to the inside of the hat. Weave in the yarn and cut the tail short.
• EMBELLISH AWAY! You may also block the hat if you so desire, but it isn't really necessary.

See? I told you it was EA-SY!!

Okay, so, maybe you don't have a stinkin' cute baby like I do. Maybe you want to make this hat for, say, a 16-year-old boy or even your cat, or your large-headed cousin. And to make matters worse, you want to use a different yarn.

AHHHHH! Right? Nah. I got that. Here's how you do it.

1. Measure the person's head for which you want to make the hat, or use the standard head measurements shown here.
2. With the yarn you wish you use and an appropriately sized needle (check your yarn packaging to get a good idea of what will work), do a gauge swatch in stockinette stitch to figure out how many stitches per inch you knit.
3. Multiply the hat recipient's head measurement in inches times the number of stitches per inch you knitted in your gauge swatch. For example, if you want to knit a 20" hat for an average-sized woman, and your gauge was 5 stitches per inch, you would multiple 20" x 5 stitches to get 100.
4. Round that number up or down to the nearest multiple of 8 to determine how many stitches to cast on. It is up to you whether you round up or down - I just base my decision on whether I want the hat to fit a little tightly or loosely. Round down if you want it tighter, and round up if you want it looser. So in the example I'm using, I would round 104 since it's a multiple of 8 (8 x 13 = 104) and I want to err on the loose side.
5. Using a needle two sizes smaller than the needle you used for your gauge swatch, cast on the correct number of stitches.
6. Place marker, and join to work in the round.
7. Work K1/P1 ribbing for 1-2 inches as desired.
8. Switch to larger needle.
9. Work in stockinette stitch until the work is as long as desired. I can't give you an exact measurement here since heads come in many shapes and sizes, and people generally like different heights of hats depending on their personal styles. Your best bet is to try it on the person you are knitting it for as you go and begin your decrease sequence when you want the hat to start curving inward toward the crown of the head.
10. Begin the decrease sequence. You may switch to DPNs/Magic Loop now, or wait until it's necessary. I usually switch about half-way through the decrease sequence. On the first row, work (K6, k2tog) around. Knit the next row around. Then, work (K5, k2tog) around. Knit around. Continue in that fashion (decrease every other row, knit around on the others) until you are ready to cinch up the top. Again, your best bet is to try it on the recipient as you go to determine if you need to add/subtract rows, etc.

I hope those instructions are easy enough. If you have any questions, feel free to comment below! I generally answer within a few hours. :)

Like this pattern? Please let me know in the comments! It gets a little lonely around here with just my little one to chat with, so I love reading your comments!