True Bias Hudson Pants in Stretch Microfiber Twill

I made more pants! I made more pants! No really, I MADE MORE PANTS, and this is an excellent thing because it's an area in which I've really been suffering...I mean, I have my Birkin Flares, and I have maternity yoga pants (hahaha, yep), but these hit a sweet spot right in the middle. 

These are the Hudson Pants in a microfiber twill with slight stretch. I purchased the fabric at Mill End here in Portland, and I actually cut these out months and months ago. In a size 10. And I am now a size 4. (Pictured above with a Deer + Doe Plantain Tee.)

BUT, I was determined to make them work. I wasn't sure really WHAT size they should be since the fabric was stretchy but not as stretchy as a knit...and I wanted a trim but not tight fit. 

I ended up sewing them together as they were and trying them on. After explaining the look I was going for by showing him some "twill joggers" on Pinterest, my husband said they looked "puffy," so back to the sewing machine I went. I ultimately ended up taking off about an inch from each side seam (tapered to the ankle band as I had already sewn those on and was too lazy to remove them - doh) and a sizable wedge out at the center back - probably about 4" total, tapered down to the crotch. The fit is now perfect. (Pictured above and below with a Grainline Studio Linden Sweatshirt and Lark Tee underneath.)

In addition, I switched out the pockets for patch pockets in the front and added pockets to the back. For the front, I used the pockets from the Cali Faye Collection Pocket Skirt, and for the back, I simply traced some from a pair of linen pants I already own. They were originally an inch lower on my bum, but I ended up moving them up about an inch before sewing on the waistband (also at the advice of my hubby). 

I also added a faux fly at the center front. You can tell in some of these photos I botched the placement of my buttonholes for the drawstring. I originally had them centered, but they looked weird since they didn't line up with the faux fly. So, I took the waistband off and lined them up with the holes. Now, it looks even more weird, but I could not be bothered with doing it a third time. Crooked pants for an often crooked person. 

I kid, I kid.

I made similar modifications on this doomed pair, except I didn't lengthen these as I wanted them to be slightly cropped. I also did not piece together the front legs. (Pictured above and in the rest of the photos with a Grainline Studio Lark Tee and a cowl I whipped up with a half yard of knit fabric from Joann.)

Can you see how much I love you guys in the photo above? Yeah, it was raining when I took these photos. But I figured if I decided to wait for a sunny day in Portland, we'd all be waiting for several hundred years. So this is what you get. 

I let my kids eat their quesadillas at the coffee table while watching shows during this photo shoot (something that never happens as a rule) so I could switch outfits and show you a few different looks. I think these pants are great because they can be dressed up or down or worn capri-length or cropped. They also go with lots of different shoes. I didn't think they would look good with the booties in the first photos, but I really like that for more of a date-night style. 

I love my new pants and know they will fill a huge gap in my spring wardrobe. I'm excited to style them in different ways and to NOT have to sew those cuffs again for a loooong time. I forgot that my sewing machine doesn't have a free arm (my loaners from Janome did - but I am no longer a part of their program as I didn't have the bandwidth any more), and my usual method of sewing from the inside-out wasn't so great with that wide, stiff, corrugated elastic. Other than that, these were a quick and satisfying sew. 

What do you think? Joggers are nothing new, but I think (hope?!) they are still in style. :)

Simplicity 8101: Little Girls' Dottie Angel Frock

You can bet that it took me about 2.5 seconds to swipe up this pattern after the moment I laid my eyes on it. 

It is Simplicity 8101 - the little girls' version of the wildly popular Dottie Angel Frock. And I. CAN'T. EVEN. I love it so much. 

I used Cotton + Steel quilting cottons from the Bluebird line (Winter 2016) for the main body and pocket accent. The pocket itself is a scrap of some Kaufman Union Chambray. 

I chose a size 3 based on Harper's measurements (21"-21"-22", 41" tall and 4.75 years old). The fit is great, but it does gape a little at the front neckline when she is playing or sitting and leaning forward. I pinched out about a 1" dart just to see how it would look that way, so I may experiment with a modification there to give her a more precise/less revealing fit. You can see the gaping in the photo below. 

I also clean finished all the inside edges without making any modifications to the pattern. You can see how I did here: 

Harper loves the front pocket, and I love all the options for personalization and little details. This dress provides many options for mixing and matching prints and trims - perfect for stash busting!

I even used some of the fabric selvage to create a pretty tag: 

I've had the adult version of this pattern in my stash for quite a while, but I'm honestly not sure why. It's not my style at all, really...at least, not in this type of fabric. Perhaps in a more flowy rayon and in muted colors? I love the idea of it, but I just don't think it would be flattering on me or work with the rest of my wardrobe. We shall see. 

For a little girl, however, I adore it! I really think it's the perfect dress, and I look forward to making many more. Ahem, I may have already made another! 

Silvia Coatigan and BurdaStyle 6990 Turtleneck

Trine made one.

Andreia made one. 

Then, Andreia made another. 

That settled it. I had to make one, too. (Because don't we all need to make the things these two brilliant ladies make?)

The pattern that I'm talking about, of course, is the Silvia Coatigan by Schnittchen Patterns. I have been wanting a slightly cocoon-shaped, boxy, oversized coatigan with dropped shoulders for some time, and finally, I have one! 

I am not going to win any awards for the quality of sewing on this garment. Oh no, make no mistake about that. Originally, I had planned to leave it unlined, so I sewed this burly, wool knit with my serger. But then, I tried it on and almost came out of my SKIN it was so itchy. I mean, duh. With that, I took to my stash and found some suitable lining fabric. I used Bemberg lining in the pockets and sleeves, and then I had another small piece of this lovely black and white cotton/silk voile for the body. It looks intentional, but in reality, I simply didn't have enough of either one to do the whole thing. 

The pattern is very well drafted and written; however, it does not include illustrations or photographs. I made good friends with my seam ripper while making this because I did make a few mistakes - mostly during the lining portion. I'd never bagged a lining, so I found it hard to imagine in my head. Finally, I used Jen's tutorial on Grainline Studio to figure it all out. 

Even with the trials, this coatigan was NOT hard to make - in fact, it was quite simple and quick. My measurements put me in-between the 36 and 38, so I went with the 36 since it is so oversized. That was a good choice as the fit is spot-on. 

 I want to make another one in a less voluminous, less ITCHY fabric so I can wear just a tee underneath. As it is, I cannot wear this one if any skin is touching it - even with the lining! The itchy bits poke right through the lining and drive me insane. However, with this turtleneck, all is well. 

I love the way I feel while wearing this. It has a very modern, street-style look, I think. I also love that I could put on some black sneakers and leggings and feel equally fashionable while wearing it. It has a way of dressing anything up while still having an effortless feel. 

I purchased this itchy-as-all-get-out fabric at Mill End here in Portland. It looks nice, but man...oh man...the itching. I also wasn't quite sure how to handle the pile when I sewed the in-seam pockets on the front. They look a little messy as-is. Perhaps I should tape down the pile on either side of the stitching line next time so it doesn't get caught in the seam allowance? 

The turtleneck was made in a black sweater knit I also purchased at Mill End from the flat-fold section. I used BurdaStyle 6990, and this is bound to become a TNT pattern for me. I love the look and the fit of this top. I did size down one size from my measurements to a 10 (instead of a 12). I probably could have even gone down to an 8 if I wanted a very fitted look. That would probably make it bunch under my arms though, so another option would be to just zip those side seams through the serger again before hemming. The thing I love most about this pattern is NO NECKBAND! Super easy and fast. Perfect. 

Indiesew 2016 Spring Collection - Cropped Birkin Flares, Lou Box Top & Florence Kimono

Wait, the title of the post said CROPPED, right? Just hold your horses. We'll get there. 

(Then again, these boots are a little too tall for these Birkins, so perhaps these ARE a little cropped? Just wait...)

Wait for it...

And BAM! Cropped flares! AKA "the fashion trend that's supposed to look awkward." 

SO before I get into these cropped flares, let me tell you about these patterns which are (almost) all part of the Indiesew 2016 Spring Collection. I've had the honor of designing and blogging for several of Allie's amazing collections, but I have to say...this one is my absolute favorite. I wish I could have made ALL the patterns, but alas, three babies. But seriously, you could get a whole capsule wardrobe out of this one amazing collection. 

Pictured above you see the brand-new Florence Kimono by Sew Caroline, a knit Lou Box Top by Sew DIY and of course, my cropped Birkin Flares. (The jeans in the first three photos are a different pair of Birkin Flares - obviously not cropped. I just wanted to show lots of different looks with these great patterns!)

I made the Florence Kimono in one night including printing and assembling the pattern. I know! Even with the French seams and bias binding around the front edge, it was a breeze to make and super satisfying, too. The fabric is a super lightweight and flowy rayon challis I purchased in LA a couple years ago. I'm so glad I bought three yards of it, because it was PERFECT for this kimono. I wasn't sure if it was really going to be my style, but I am in love with this whole look. I made the XS-S size. (Measurements: 5'6" tall, 34-28-36-ish. It changes every day. Babies, I tell you. But basically I am a RTW 4 with a little muffin top added for good measure.)

I had quizzed the Instagramz to determine whether or not I should add fringe, and it was about 50/50. Ultimately, I decided not to add it because I think the simple look works more with my casual wardrobe and #momlife. Plus, I could not find any suitable fringe. There you have it. 

Pictured above and below is the Lou Box Top which I am wearing some variation of in all these photos. I also previously blogged a different version here. I told Beth, the designer, that this top was one of my top 3 favorite patterns. She seemed happy about that and blah blah blah but...I have a confession to make. I lied. 

It is probably my #1 most favoritest pattern ever!! It is super versatile and gives so many different looks depending on the fabric and size used. My version above is the smallest size - the XXS - and it's awesome in this slub knit that I purchased from the remnant table at Mill End here in Portland. I will be wearing it constantly this summer with all the things despite having cut a tiny hole in it near the back hem (and also cutting through my coverstitching). 

The only modification I made to this knit version was in how I constructed the hem. Before sewing the side seams, I stuck the bottom hem under with some Wash-Away Wonder Tape (but I didn't sew it). I then serged the side seams all the way down (skipping the vent) and left a long tail that I then pulled back through the serging with a large hand-sewing needle. Finally, I cover stitched around the bottom edge in one go. 

But wait! There's another Lou Box Top! (Told you I love it.)

This one I made in a Robert Kaufman Union Chambray that I purchased at Fabric Depot in Portland. To be honest, this fabric was in my scrap bin because...um...I didn't feel like ironing it. Just kidding (not really) BUT I was pretty skeptical about using it because it doesn't have much drape. It kind of gives me flashbacks to using quilting cotton for garment sewing which we all know leads to very bad things. 

However, I am happy to report that I love this top, too! It's a totally different look than my knit or rayon challis one, but I do find it flattering and comfortable. For this version, I sewed the size XS (which corresponds to my bust measurement of 34") and lowered the neckline about 1/2" because I like flashing people. Obvs.

Actually no, I did that because I loved Felicia's version and wanted to be just like her. She mentioned somewhere that she had lowered hers to the level of the Wiksten Tank, so I lowered mine to the level of the Cali Faye Collection Basics Tank which has a great neckline for me. 

When I bend over in odd configurations in an attempt to look like fashion bloggers and runway models (actually I'm just bending over to pick up kids and clean up cat puke), it does fall away from my body in a way that might not be appropriate for the playground or a curling match. 

But hey, it looks fab when I am standing straight up! So yeah, I might stick with the original neckline if I make it again in a stiff fabric like this one. I think lowering it wouldn't be so bad for a more flowy fabric that clings to the chest. 

UP NEXT! A comfy Oslo Cardigan (not in this collection, but I happened to have it with me and thought it looked cozy with these pants) with the same knit Lou Box Top from earlier and the impressively awkward (yet incredible) cropped Birkin Flares. 

Okay, I admit that the first time cropped flares started popping up in my Pinterest feed, I thought Alexa Chung was cray-cray with a capital CRAY. But then, I started getting used to seeing them (like any weird fashion trend), and I've become obsessed.

Like my sarouel pants that YOU ALL LOVED (hahahahaHA), these are probably not going to be for everyone. But they ARE for me because I embrace anything that makes me stand out in a semi-embarrassing fashion.

To hack the Birkin Flares into crops, I simply chopped about 5" off a pair I'd already made. (This will depend on how tall you are, how short you want your crops, etc. - I recommend pinning them up and then basting the side seams to determine how wide you want them.) I then narrowed the flare by about 1/2" on each side (at inseam and outseam) and re-sewed the leg seams. (Actually, I first narrowed it in a bit more, but it was too much - so I redid it all.) 

I also made sure to taper in a tiny bit at the last inch before the bottom of the legs so the hem would nest nicely when it was turned under. WIth stretch fabric especially, you can end up with an ugly belling out at the bottom if you don't taper that hem in a tad. 

So there you have it! I love these garments so much and am thrilled to feel like I'm finally making things that work with my lifestyle and taste. I'm finding that more solid colors coupled with slightly off-the-beaten-path silhouettes are what I love. Blues, grays and other neutrals...ahhhh. 

Wanna check out what the other bloggers on the tour made with this collection? Check these out:

February 24: Fleurine | Sew Marie Fleur
February 25: Teresa | Dandelion Drift
February 26: Lauren | Right Sides Together
February 29: Erin | Sewbon
March 1: Beth | Sew DIY
March 2: Emily | In the Folds
March 3: Caroline | Sew Caroline
March 4: Lauren | Baste + Gather
March 5: Sophie | Ada Spragg

Or you can see all the details on Indiesew by clicking the image below:

Thanks for reading! xoxo

Happy Homemade: Sew Chic - Sarouel Pants (& a Tee)

I'm gonna start this post by saying I know there's no "in-between" on this style of pants - you either love them or hate them (with a passion). I happen to be in the former camp, and not only do I love the way they feel, I actually love the way they look!

I was thinking about why I like them so much today, and it occurred to me that it's because they are so unique-looking (not to mention insanely comfortable). When I see someone wearing sarouel pants (variations also known as harem pants, Thai fisherman pants, drop-crotch pants, etc.), I imagine the person to be interesting, confident, laid-back and well-traveled. But that's just me - obviously there are those who think the person is just plain stupid for wearing such a monstrosity! Ha!

I think the other reason I love them so much is that my husband and I got married in Thailand where I bought a couple pairs of these to wear over my swimsuits while hanging out at Railay Beach. I still have one pair, but the fabric isn't really suitable for wearing as actual pants. At least not in this country. 

The pants are the Straight-Cut Sarouel Pants (view L) from Happy Homemade: Sew Chic (affiliate link) in a voluminous and flowy linen/rayon? blend. I put the question mark because I bought them from the remnant table at Mill End here in Portland, so I am just guessing on the content. The fabric feels like a high-quality Tencel but with some linen qualities, too. It was perfect for these pants. (I left off the pockets because I didn't have enough fabric.)

My measurements corresponded perfectly to a size 10, so I cut the 10-12 (the pattern pieces actually only come in 6-8, 10-12 and 14-16). That puts me right in the middle of the size range. I would like to also try cutting a 6-8 to see how they look with a little less volume. I do, however, love them the way they are. I shortened the elastic measurement about an inch for these, and I will shorten it a couple more inches more when I make another pair. (I used non-roll, ribbed elastic in 3/4" width.) I find them to be a little too loose when running after the kids and such as they are. In fact, I will probably re-do this waistband and take in the elastic a bit. 

In other words, if you are on-the-fence about size, go down. You will likely have plenty of room! I will likely make another pair in the smaller size using some black Tencel I purchased from the Nicole Miller line at JoAnn Fabrics. My thinking is that the black color combined with a trimmer fit will give a bit of a more dress-up look. We shall see. 

Bottom line on these pants? I absolutely love them. Like, love them, love them. I already have fabric picked our for a couple more pairs, and I will be wearing the hell out of them this spring/summer. My one bit of caution if you are interested in these pants is to very carefully choose your fabric. The book suggests using linen or hemp, but if you are using linen, I would STRONGLY advise you to purchase a rayon blend. Otherwise, you're going to have some poufy pants. But hey, if that's your thing, then go for it! I just like a more drapey look. I'd also like to try these in a jersey knit for around-the-house. 

You should also note that wearing these pants will probably generate a few side-eyed looks. There are a lot of people who are going to think they're weird and unattractive. But it will all be worth it for the freedom your crotch is experiencing (HAHHAHAHA I soooo hesitated writing that, but hey hey, I have had a glass of wine, and my kids are in 2-hour gym daycare.) and the ONE exasperated, "I love your pants! Where did you get them?!" from someone who is awesome and knows that these pants are actually the bomb. 

As for the tee, you have seen sneak peeks of this already if you follow me on Instagram. I traced my absolute favorite Old Navy tee that was starting to wear thin. It was a size medium, so a little oversized since my measurements would place me in a small. There are a lot of great tee sewing patterns out there, but I'm glad to have finally created my own that works perfectly for my shape and taste. With others that I've made, there was always SOMETHING that bothered me - bunching under the arms, excess height in the shoulders, not enough shaping at the waist, too much length, too much hip flare, etc. That's not to say that a pattern can't be altered to fit just right, but this was an easy route to that tried-and-true pattern. 

I have been searching and collecting knit jersey for months to add to my tee stash. This one was one of my favorites that I also found here in Portland at Mill End (yes, they still have some). It's very lightweight but not see-through, and it has this awesome slub texture. I love the color, drape, softness...everything!

 I sewed the bulk of the tee with my serger, and then I coverstitched the sleeve and bottom hems. I also did a chain stitch (with my coverstitch machine) around the neckline after applying the neckband. Next, I created a pocket and coverstitched the top hem of it. I stuck it onto the shirt with Wash-Away Wonder Tape, and I fused a couple small circles of fusible tricot on the wrong side of the fabric underneath the top corners. This reinforces the fabric so it doesn't develop little holes should you actually choose to use your pocket for a ticket or dollar bill or whatever. It's a good practice either way. I then used my regular sewing machine to sew the pocket on (yes, I use all three machines to make tees!), and finally, I sewed a velvet ribbon along the back neckline to give the tee a really ready-to-wear look and feel. 

I am so incredibly pleased with this outfit, and I am going to make many versions of it. I feel like this look really is my style - relaxed, effortless, a little Bohemian. And I honestly think it's kind of cute (regardless of what my husband says). :P

What do you think? Are sarouel pants on your to-sew list?