Jeans Sew-Along, Part 4: Front Zip Fly

Okay. I know that some of you are freaking out right now because ZIP FLY and ZOMG and ALL THE HARD THINGS TO SEW. 

Let's just calm down. Sewing a zip fly is not hard. Seriously, NOT HARD. If you follow the photos or illustrations in the pattern step-by-step, you will have a fabulous zip fly in about 20 minutes. 

Really. 

So let's do this. 

First, serge the front fly edges on the pants fronts as shown below. I recommend disengaging your serger blade, especially on the wearer's right piece, so you don't cut through your fabric at the inset corner. 

If you are doing the sew-along in order and following along with the PDF instructions, ignore the fact that there are already pockets attached to these jeans. I did my sew-along in a slightly different order than in the instructions. You can do it as you wish. 

Next, use regular thread and sew the center front from the crotch to the marking that you created when cutting out your pieces. You may wish to mark the 5/8" seam allowance before sewing as it can be hard to get it perfect around curved edges without a visual guide. Backstitch a couple times at the marking.

Press the seam allowance toward the wearer's left of the jeans (the side with no fly extension). A pressing ham makes this job easier. Also, press the fly extension on the right front leg toward the wrong side by 5/8". 

Next, fold the fly shield in half vertically with right sides facing. Sew the bottom curve with a 1/4" seam allowance and regular thread. Turn it right-side-out, and press. 

Serge the edges of the fly shield and fly facing as shown below. 

Pin the zipper to the fly shield as shown below. Be sure to place the zipper shield just above the line you marked when cutting out your pieces. The zipper teeth should be 5/8" away from the serged/left edge of the fly shield. 

I like to aim the pins upward so they are easy to remove as I sew. 

Using a zipper foot and regular thread, sew the zipper to the fly shield as pinned. Your stitches should be close to the zipper teeth. ONLY sew as far down as the bottom of the zipper stop, and backstitch. 

Place the zipper shield and zipper under the right pants leg at the center front where the fly extension is turned under and pressed. Line up the top of the fly shield with the top of the pants front, and align the zipper teeth about 1/8" away from the center front. Pin in place with pins pointing upward so you can remove them as you sew. 

Using topstitching thread, a zipper foot and a longer stitch length, sew the fly shield (with zipper) to the right front leg as shown below. Stop just below the zipper stop. 

Your fly will now look like the photo below EXCEPT you will not sew down as far as I did on this pair. Make sure you stop your stitching just below the zipper stop. This is to make topstitching the fly front easier when we get to that point.

While you have the jeans in this position, mark on the left front leg piece where the zipper stop will fall once the fly is completed. You don't want to sew below the zipper stop at any point until we complete the front fly topstitching. 

Pin the zipper facing to the left front leg with right sides facing. I used a red pin here (instead of white like the others) to show me where to stop so I don't go past the point where the zipper stop will fall. 

Sew it in place with regular thread. 

Press the fly facing to the wrong side as shown below. 

From the right side and using topstitching thread/longer stitch length, sew a line of topstitching 1/8" from the left center front and stopping at the point of the zipper stop. Backstitch a stitch or two. 

Pin the right and left front pieces together at the center front. Make sure there are no puckers at the bottom of your front topstitching and that everything lies flat. The topstitching at the center of the right leg should be well covered by the left-side overlap. Pin in place right on the topstitching. There will be a lot of layers to pin through - but you are just doing this to anchor everything together for the next step. You don't have to go through all the layers. 

Flip the jeans over so you are looking at the wrong side. Pin the left side of the zipper to the fly facing as shown below. Point the pins upward for easy removal as you sew. You will simply line this up as it feels natural based on where you pinned the center fronts together in the last step. You can flip the jeans back over to the front to make sure everything lies flat. 

While you're here, pin the fly shield out of the way on the right side. It doesn't have to look pretty. You just don't want to accidentally catch it in your stitching when sewing the other side of the zipper. 

Note that when I photographed the next few steps, I had not yet made the change in the pattern instructions to stop all zipper stitching at the zipper stop. The bottom of your fly shield should be pinned up and out-of-the-way as shown in the PDF instructions. 

Be extra sure you are only sewing through the zipper and the fly facing. Everything else should be out-of-the-way as shown below. 

Using the zipper foot again and regular thread, sew just to the left of the zipper teeth. Stop at the base of the zipper stop. 

Et voila! Almost done. 

Leave the fly shield pinned out of the way, and be sure the bottom of it is pinned up as shown in the pattern instructions (and not as photographed here). You will understand why this is so important when you topstitch the fly in the following steps. 

Using the provided template and tailor's chalk, draw the topstitching lines for the fly front. Some of my testers preferred to draw one line and then use 1/4" Quilter's Tape alongside it to show exactly where to stitch. 

The next step is arguably the most difficult part of sewing jeans - not because the action itself is hard, but because how well you do it can mean the difference in having a fabulous pair of jeans (or not). I sometimes do this step several times over to get it perfect! Do not get discouraged if you have to do the same.

Using topstitching thread and a longer stitch length, stitch along the two chalk lines you made in the previous step. Go slowly around the curve, but try to do it all in one go instead of starting and stopping. I wasn't kidding when I said this part takes practice! That curve can be a real jerk!

When you get to the center seam, stop, and backstitch a time or two on both lines of stitching.

Once you're satisfied with the fly front topstitching, you can unpin the fly shield and let everything fall naturally into place. Using a narrow zigzag/bartack, anchor the fly shield in place along one of the topstitching lines just above where the curve starts. 

Finally, sew a narrow line of horizontal zigzag stitches near the bottom of the fly and about 1/2"-1" above where the fly topstitching meets the center front. Start at the center front, and make it about 1/2" wide. Once you're done, pivot your jeans and sew a second line of topstitching down the crotch. Angle it in until you are 1/4" from the first line of topstitching. This final step anchors down the bottom of the fly shield and fly facing that we left free to enable the fly front topstitching. 

No, your eyes are not fooling you - the jeans above already have the front attached to the back! I just included it to show you how the topstitching should look at the fly. If you have any doubts, look at a pair of RTW jeans from your closet or online. 

See, that wasn't so bad, right? If you're having trouble, be sure to compare the photos above to the illustrations in your pattern tutorial, or visit the Baste + Gather Sewing Chat facebook group to get help. 

Jeans Sew-Along, Part 1: Sourcing Fabric & Other Supplies

Welcome to the Birkin Flares/Kendall Skinnies sew-along! I am so glad you've decided to sew your own jeans. I can tell you with 100% honesty that I love my handmade jeans more than any other jeans I've owned. I find the process to be extremely enjoyable, and the end result is something you can wear with a big smile on your face. 

There's a misconception that jeans are hard to make. Really - t's totally false! There are really only three parts that are challenging in my opinion: 1) finding the supplies, 2) getting the right fit and 3) perfecting your topstitching. Lucky for us, there are tons of options for supplies nowadays (which I'll share in this post), dozens of tutorials and books on fit and...well...all I can say about perfect topstitching is that practice makes perfect! (And I'll give you a lot of tips along the way!)

So, are you ready to get started? Let's dig in and talk fabric and supplies!

For the Birkin Flares, you're going to need 2.5-3 yards of medium- to heavyweight stretch woven fabric. (See your pattern for exact amounts.) This includes the following: 

• Denim
• Velveteen
• Corduroy
• Twill

Some of my testers were able to get away with about 2.25 yards of fabric, but they were using unusually wide fabric. Be aware that keeping your pattern on-grain is super important for these jeans, so don't fall into the temptation of angling your pattern pieces when cutting to get your jeans out of less fabric!

I find that 10-12oz denim with around 2% lycra/elastane/spandex works best - it has the best combination of stretch and recovery. A lighter-weight denim will yield a dressier-looking jean, and I suggest creating a deeper hem with lighter weights to weigh the jeans legs down. I also like denim with a little polyester or rayon content, and you'll find this in many of the higher-end, designer jeans.

Note that the lycra/elastane/spandex content percentage does NOT translate to the percentage of stretch. Percentage stretch is a ratio of the measurement of the stretched fabric to the non-stretched fabric. With the types of fabric you'll be using for your jeans, you'll usually hear it expressed as a percentage of content rather than stretch. 

For the Kendall Skinnies, you will need about 1.5 - 2 yards of the same types of fabric, however, you can potentially use a lighter-weight (as low as 7-9oz) with success. You also want to be absolutely sure that it has a decent amount of stretch (don't skimp and get a 1%-lycra-content fabric!) since they are very fitted all the way down to the ankle. Your knees will not be happy with a lower amount of stretch!

If you've been thinking about using non-stretch fabric, I don't recommend it for either of my jeans patterns. They actually have negative ease at the hips to achieve a nice, sleek (yet forgiving!) fit, and the waist is designed to stretch with you for maximum comfort (without stretching out). 

Here are my favorite sources for high-quality denim: 

• Threadbare Fabrics (sells several weights/colors of stretch and S-Gene Cone Mills denim)
• Fancy Tiger Crafts (sells Cone Mills, but not S-Gene, denim)
• Indiesew (sometimes sells very nice, heavyweight stretch denim and is looking to stock a muslin-quality denim, too - just head to their site and search "denim")

Designer-quality denim will run you about $12-16/yard. I've used cheaper denims with some success, but I find that they "bag out" at the knees and bottom after a few hours of wear. The higher end denims hold their shape and don't wrinkle as badly, in my opinion. I have randomly found decent denim in the red-tag section at Joann Fabrics, so definitely check there - especially if you want to make a muslin first. 

Rivets, Buttons, Zippers & Topstitching Thread

I get all my jeans hardware (buttons, rivets and zippers) from TaylorTailor. He also sells high-quality topstitching thread in several shades. I have found that Coats & Clark topstitching thread works best on my machine as it is a little thinner and smoother than others. I like the LOOK of the thicker thread, but my sewing machine tends to shred it even using a topstitching needle. 

If you are going for a high-contrast look, use lighter-colored topstitching thread. If you want a more classic, understated look, choose a darker copper color. For a tone-on-tone look (great for dressier jeans in dark indigo), you can use navy topstitching thread. Of course, you can also have a lot of fun and choose a fun pastel or bright spool!

Don't be afraid of hammer-in buttons and rivets. I actually find them to be the easiest to install, and I have a handy video in the finishing section to show you exactly how to do it. Don't worry!

Finally, you can get away with a 5" zipper for the smaller sizes, but I always buy 7" zippers out of habit and just to be safe. It's really easy to cut them down to the perfect length when you get to that stage. 

Other Supplies

A list of other supplies you will/might need is included in your pattern. However, there are a couple that I want to highlight as I find them vital to successful jeans making. 

First is a topstitching needle (or a few!). I do ALL the stitching on my jeans with one of these regardless of whether I'm using topstitching thread. The difference is that they have a larger thread eye, so they don't shred the thicker thread. I usually use a size 12 or 14 as I've never seen them in a size bigger than that. I always have success finding these at chain or independent fabric stores. 

Side note: Always use regular thread in your bobbin. Never put topstitching thread in there! Just load your bobbin with some thread that matches your fabric (navy for denim, as an example), and don't change it when you change the top thread. As for serger thread, I use three spools of gold serger thread for all my jeans. You can use what you like as it will only ever show if you cuff the ankles of your jeans. 

If using a heavier-weight fabric, I also find a hammer to be crucial. (You'll need one if you're using hammer-in rivets and buttons, too.) You use it to hammer thick seams and make them easier to sew on the machine. You can buy one of these at any hardware or big-box store. And while you're there, pick up some needle-nose pliers to pull off excess zipper teeth. 

A triangular tailor's chalk is a godsend for me in jeans making. I find it leaves the best mark and comes off super easily. I use white for pretty much everything. You can purchase these at any fabric store. 

A few pressing tools will also come in handy. I use a tailor's clapper, a sleeve sausage (for the legs) and a ham (for curved seams) in constructing almost all woven garments. You will find them handy for jeans as well as many other applications. You can stock up on these at Joann when they are offering great coupons (or click on the links to purchase via Amazon). 

There are lots of other supplies I recommend in the pattern, but those are a few of the ones I consider to be vital to your success. If you have any questions, be sure to ask in the Baste + Gather Sewing Chat group on Facebook or in the comments below! I will do my best to answer. 

Once you've got your fabric and other supplies, let's get sewing!

Jeans Sew-Along, Part 6: Inseam & Outseam

Page coming soon!

Jeans Sew-Along, Part 5: Front Pockets

Are you having fun yet?! I told you that jeans are not so hard to sew. :)  Next up, front pockets! Now, remember that you can do the pockets and fly in whatever order you like. If you prefer to do the pockets first, great. If you want to do the fly first, that's your prerogative. It makes no difference in the finished product. 

First, serge the curved edges of the pocket facings as shown below. While you're at the serger, you might as well also go ahead and serge one long edge of the belt loop piece (which will eventually be cut into individual belt loops). If you didn't already, make sure to trace the placement lines for the coin pocket on the right pocket facing. 

Since we're going to be using topstitching thread here, we'll go ahead and knock out those belt loops. Fold the long piece in thirds with the serged edge on the outside. Make sure the serged edge goes right to the edge of the folded-under edge so the serged edge gets caught in the topstitching. I didn't photograph the topstitching step (sorry!), but it's as simple as topstitching a line from the right side of the belt loop piece - 1/8" from each long edge. Once you're done with that, lay the belt loop piece aside. 

You already topstitched the top of the coin pocket (but if you're skipping around and didn't go ahead and do that as shown below), so you now just need to pin the coin pocket onto the right pocket facing like you see here. I just aim two pins out from the inside of the coin pocket to secure it. Topstitch around the edges at 1/8" and then 1/4" away from that just like you did on the back pockets (not pictured). You will notice in the PDF instructions that I extended my topstitching to the top of the pocket facing on the one side. That was not a mistake - I saw that detail on a pair of Madewell jeans and really liked it, so I did it, too! I did not, however, do that on the pair featured in this sew-along. 

Next, pin the pocket facings to the wrong side of the pockets as shown below. Now, you can choose to pin them to the right sides if you like. It's up to you and depends on whether you want the right side of the pockets to be visible to you when you are putting on the pants (like here) OR if you want the right side to be visible when you peek inside the pockets. I decided to have it be visible to ME when I'm putting on the pants because who is ever going to see the inside of my pockets?! 

Using regular thread, sew those facings in place just along the serged edge. You should also baste them together with the pocket along the top and outseam edge. (Do as I say, not as I do. Ha!)

Now you will pin the wrong side of the pocket (the side with the pocket facings applied) to the right side of the jeans front pieces along the pocket curves as shown below. 

Stitch with your normal 5/8" seam allowance. Trim to 1/4", and cut notches into the seam allowance to, but not through, the line of stitching. This will help you to press the pocket edges really flat in the next step. 

Turn the pockets to the wrong side of the jeans fronts and press. 

From the right side of the jeans fronts, topstitch at 1/8" and then again 1/4" from that along the curve. It can be tricky to keep your topstitching perfectly aligned around curves like this, so you may choose to draw guidelines with your tailor's chalk before you begin. Alternatively, you can stick some 1/4" quilter's tape to the edge to guide you (and then remove it). Even as a very experienced sewer, I still have trouble getting this curve just right. The tips I've mentioned here are something I still do, and they really make the difference in a great-looking pair of jeans or not!

From the wrong side of the jeans fronts, fold the pockets in half, matching outseam edges and notch. Press.

Pin the bottom edges of the pockets together. Now, you can simply sew those together with a 5/8" seam allowance and then serge the bottom edge, OR, you can do what I've done in the next steps and create French seams. This isn't a detailed tutorial on French seams, but you can certainly google French seams if you like what you see here. Stitching and serging works fine though!

In the photo below you can see the nice edges of my French seams. 

All finished! Press everything flat, and baste the pocket edges to the top and outseam edges of the jeans to make future steps easier. 

Getting really close to the fun parts! Yipee!

Jeans Sew-Along, Part 3: Yoke, Back Legs & Pockets

Are you ready to start sewing? Yeah?! Let's go!

Before we get going, I want to again tell you that jeans are NOT hard to sew! You got this. In fact, If I have several hours of uninterrupted sewing time (which never happens), I can theoretically make a pair of these in one sitting. Flashing back to reality, however, it takes about a week with an hour or two a night/day of work. They are easily a weekend project. 

I always start with the back. I'm not sure why, but I think it's because I like seeing the fruits of my labor quickly. And since the back is pretty easy, it delivers instant gratification. 

First, pin your yoke pieces to the back legs with right sides together. Match the notches and stretch the yoke slightly to fit. 

Note that the yokes will hang over the leg pieces a little at the center back (photo below). You will notice, however, that they line up perfectly where the seam will be sewn 5/8" down from the top. Once the yokes are pressed up (and seam allowances pressed down), everything will match up perfectly. 

Sew that seam with a 5/8" seam allowance and using regular thread. And if you haven't already, load up your serger for a three-thread stitch. I use the classic gold thread for all my jeans sewing. 

If you don't have a serger, you can also just use a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. 

Serge the seam you just sewed without trimming any of the seam allowance. In fact, you may disengage your serger's blade for the duration of the sewing process if you like. I like to leave mine engaged, however, just to trim loose threads that come unraveled during handling. 

Press the seam allowance down toward the legs...(clapper used below to make seams crisp and flat)...

And switch to topstitching thread and a longer stitch length. (Always leave regular thread in the bobbin.) I like to use a 2.8 stitch length for topstitching, but you might like yours longer. I find I'm more accurate in my starting/stopping with a shorter length, and I like the more refined look. Longer stitch lengths tend to look more fashion-forward and trendy, and that's fine if that's your jam. 

Stitch one line 1/8" from the seam you just sewed, and then stitch a second line 1/4" from the first. There is no need to backstitch at the beginning and end of this topstitching. 

Since you already have topstitching thread in your machine, this is a great time to sew the back and coin pockets. Press down 3/8" along the top edges, twice, as shown below. A clapper will help you get these to stay in place. 

Sew two lines of topstitching - one 1/8" from the edge and a second 1/4" from the first. Be sure you are catching the hem under the second line of stitching as it will be pretty close.

With stretch fabric, you may end up with some distortion along that upper edge after topstitching. If so, simply steam the pockets with the iron. If the corners are angling out too much, you can simply trim them off to true-up those sides.

Next, fold all the remaining side edges under 3/8" and press. Use your finger to force the raw edge down a little bit away from the top edge so it doesn't stick out in an unsightly fashion when the pockets are sewn to the jeans. 

Now... I am about to tell you to pin and sew the pockets onto the back pants legs using the guides you transferred when you cut out your pattern. 

HOWEVER. 

I have since changed my method, and I want to share my little trick with you. Of course, you can proceed as you like, but this new method has saved me some grief since implementing it. 

Now, I actually sew the two back pieces together and topstitch the center back seam BEFORE applying the pockets. In the original method (which follows), you were to shift one of the pants legs over 3/8" to give the illusion of a centered back seam. That's great, and you should still do that. However, I found that sometimes my pockets were still not perfect.

Since perfect is what we're going for here (haha, right...just you wait for my waistband topstitching), I now wait until the back is completely assembled to do a visual check on the pockets before topstitching them on. Make sense? 

So, following the instructions as written - you will pin your pockets on using the guides you traced. I typically just use three pins pointing outward from the center to the corners. I also draw chalk lines to guide me in my topstitching so the two lines are perfectly spaced. 

See the chalk lines in the corner? Life-changing. (I learned that trick in Angela Wolf's "Sewing Designer Jeans" course on Craftsy which I highly recommend! And yes, that is an affiliate link!)

Starting at one of the pocket tops and backstitching a couple times, sew 1/8" from the edge of the pocket, and pivot at the chalk lines you just drew. Backstitch a couple stitches at the end, too.

Sew a second line 1/4" in from the one you just made, again pivoting at the chalk lines. Repeat for both pockets. 

Now is the time to add a narrow bar tack to the top corners of each pocket. This is simply a narrow, closely-spaced zigzag stitch that reinforces the pocket so it doesn't pull off when you put your hands in them repeatedly. It also looks good. I find they can be challenging to sew - especially on thick denim - so make sure you hammer the corners from the inside of the jeans to flatten them out a bit. (You hammer from the inside to avoid damaging the outside of your jeans.)

Next, serge the crotch of ONLY the wearer's right back leg as shown in the image below. Also, go ahead and serge the outseam edges of both back leg pieces. 

Now you are going to give me the side eye on this next step - I can already tell. But trust me here! Place the left back leg on top of the right back leg, right sides together. Then, shift it over 3/8" (measure it to be accurate!), and pin it in place. Stretch the top piece every-so-slighly so the crotch point still lines up at the inseam. This offset is to give the illusion of a centered back seam. (Otherwise, the topstitching will make your pockets look uneven!)

Aaaaand here's what you'll end up with. But don't fret! Once you sew those two lines of topstitching, everything will look as if it's lined up perfectly. Magic, huh?

What did I tell you?!

And the back side of your jeans is complete! I usually do the steps up until now in one night and put everything away for a break at this point. Go have a glass of wine, and binge on some Netflix (or catch up on The Bachelor). You deserve it. 

Jeans Sew-Along, Part 2: Tracing the Pattern & Cutting Your Fabric

I'm going to assume that since you're sewing jeans, you've probably traced and cut out a pattern or two in your lifetime. I'd still like to give you a few tips that maybe you haven't used before. 

But before we get into tracing and cutting, let's take a brief moment to talk about selecting your size.

Choosing a Size

This seems to be one of the scariest parts of making jeans (or any pants, for that matter) for a lot of sewists. It isn't as scary as you think though, especially with pants made from stretch fabric. I recommend that you choose your size based on a snug hip measurement taken at the very widest point of your bottom. Move the measuring tape up and down until you get the highest measurement, and go with that. 

If you are anything like I am and have had a kid or two (or three or six), your waist measurement might be proportionally bigger than your hips. No sweat. These jeans have stretch built into the waistband and will work just fine even if your waist is an inch or two above what is stated for your hip-based size.

In other words, if your hips are 43" (size 33), but your waist is 35" (size 35), you can probably get away with a size 33". If you have more than 2" difference, I do recommend grading in-between sizes. I also recommend cutting the waistband a little longer than the pattern piece if you are in any doubt since it can easily be trimmed down to size if needed.

In my case, I have made these jeans in both size 26 and 27. My hips are 36", and my waist varies from about 27-29". Both pairs fit great thanks to the stretchiness of the fabric and the negative ease at the hips.

On the other hand, if it's your hips that are proportionally bigger, you might want to grade out at the hips to a larger size. I recommend you consult others in the Baste + Gather Sewing Chat group to get their experiences and make a decision. 

One other thing to remember is that these jeans have a 5/8" seam allowance. That gives you plenty of room to let them out a little (or take them in) when you get to the point of basting together the outseams.

Seriously - don't sweat this part too much. You'll be surprised at how much you can ad lib your way through making these jeans. They are quite forgiving and can be modified as you go. You'll also be shocked at what a difference in fit you'll get from different fabrics. I have a size 26 pair that fits more loosely than a size 27 pair and a different size 27 pair that's looser than both the others. They are all different denims with slightly different stretch amounts and fabric content/weight. The key is to simply try them on as you go, making adjustments as needed. 

Tracing & Cutting

First, print and assemble your pattern as guided in the pattern instructions. Note that both the print-at-home AND copy shop versions are layered, so I recommend printing only the size(s) you need since the lines overlap in several places. 

Once you've got your paper pattern ready, I *highly* recommend tracing your pattern onto Swedish tracing paper for several reasons. 

Swedish tracing paper is different from regular tracing paper in that it performs and feels little more like fabric. It is completely transparent (so you can see the pattern lines), but it won't rip or become distorted. You can also iron it just like fabric if you have to fold it up into an envelope and re-use. 

Printer paper and regular tracing paper tend to tear, come apart and get tattered after a while. They're not the easiest to iron, either. Just trust me and get some Swedish tracing paper. You'll thank me later. 

I also like to use large washers from the hardware store instead of pins to hold down my tracing paper (and to hold down the pattern when I am actually cutting the fabric). My husband picked these up for me at Home Depot for a few bucks. I like to have about 20-25 on-hand at all times. 

I keep a yardstick around as a straight-edge when I have a long, straight line to trace. A large quilting ruler also does the trick (and I'll be using one later in this post). 

But here's a little trick - you can also line up straight-edged pattern pieces with the straight edges of your tracing paper to save the time and effort of having to draw that line (see above). Another thing you can do is to abut pattern pieces with straight edges against each other. Then, you only have to draw/cut that line once. 

When tracing your pattern pieces, be sure to label them with pattern name, pattern piece, size and cutting instructions. Also be sure to accurately transfer the grainline and any notches/pattern markings. You can see in the photo below that I've actually drawn my fly template on the leg front piece. It doesn't really matter where you put this - it's just a guide for tracing. 

With flared jeans, it's especially important to make length adjustments before cutting your fabric. If you wait to hem them at the end, and you have to take off several inches, you will lose a bit of that gorgeous flare. It's almost as important with the Kendalls since the lower leg is contoured for a flattering fit.

My suggestion is to do one of two things: 1) measure the inseam of a pair of similar existing jeans to determine how much to adjust the inseam or 2) measure your body from the crotch down to the floor while wearing your intended shoes. Keeping in mind that the Birkin Flares have a 34" inseam as drafted (Kendalls are 30"), make adjustments at the two length modification lines.

For example, if your desired finished inseam on the Birkins is 32", you will take out 1" at the top line and 1" at the bottom line for a total of 2" removed. You can add length the same way by cutting the pattern apart at the lengthen/shorten lines and separating them the desired amount. 

If you have proportionally short/long calves or thighs, you may choose to add or subtract all your length at just one of the lines. 

A couple things to keep in mind... My jeans are drafted for the legs of the average 5'6" woman. If you are an average 5'4" woman, that does NOT translate into a 2" inseam difference. Remember, your legs are only about half of your height. So, that would probably be more of a 1" inseam reduction needed. Also, the Birkins are drafted to be worn with high heels/wedges/platforms. Depending on the type of shoes you normally wear, you might also need to make adjustments. 

If you simply want to deepen the hem (or deepen it in addition to lengthening/shortening the overall inseam length), follow the instructions in the pattern. This is shown in the image above. You simply extend the hem the desired amount (the drafted hem is 1" total - so 1/2" folded up twice), angling it in very slightly to mirror the angle of the flare (so it tucks in there nicely when folded up and stitched). 

Next, be sure to line up your pattern's grainline with the grainline of your fabric. 

Now, I know what you're thinking..."Aha! This is important because it prevents twisting of the legs!" 

Well, yes...and no. It IS super important for this reason, but being off-grain isn't the only thing that can cause twisted leg syndrome. I have researched this topic at length, and I don't intend to re-hash it all here in this post. Suffice it to say that twisted legs can be caused by the weave of the fabric, being off-grain, whether the pieces are cut individually or in pairs and several other factors. You can research this on your own to try to work it out, or you can look at everyone else wearing their twisted ready-to-wear jeans and not worry about it. Do your best, but don't obsess over it. (That's my philosophy, anyway.)

You can see in the photos above and below that I like to use a quilting ruler to line up the grainline with the selvages. 

After you've cut your front pieces, be sure to trim away the fly extension as directed on the pattern. In case you forgot to trace the cutting line, simply cut 5/8" off as shown below. MAKE SURE YOU ONLY CUT THE WEARER'S LEFT PIECE!

Also be sure to mark the little diamond on the fly. In the image below, I've marked on the right side of the fabric, but it would actually make more sense to put this on the wrong side since that's the side you'll be looking at when you sew. No biggie though; you can simply put a different colored pin in that spot to remind you to stop there when sewing the front crotch. 

Finally, I trace off all the pocket markings using Saral Transfer paper. I have tried numerous different kinds of transfer papers, but this one is hands-down the best!! It shows up well when you need it and washes off/brushes off easily when you don't. It also comes in several great colors (get them all in the sampler pack) for use on different colors. 

I use a smooth tracing wheel (no notches) to trace the markings. Doesn't it look great? 

All cut out and ready-to-sew!

In the next session, we're going to start sewing. Get ready to have a ton of fun and make some awesome jeans!